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Grobo usnje, Usnje divijh živali, Velur usnje, Nubuk usnje

Grobo usnje je krovni izraz za vse velur površine na usnju. To so površinsko brušena usnja z bolj ali manj žametno površino. Prednost takšnega usnja je prijetno topel otip in lepa struktura.

Grobo usnje, ki je brušeno na brazgotinasti strani imenujemo Nubuk, grobo usnje iz mesnega dela imenujemo Velur usnje. Tudi navzven obdelana, neprevlečena zadnja stran gledkega usnja, jagnje kože ali kravje kože se označuje kot velur usnje.

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Nubuk usnje (levo) ima fin Flor.

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Velur usnje pa bolj grob Flor.

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Nubuk usnje se naredi z brušenjem na brazgotinasti strani.

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Usnje divjih živali (Wildleder)

Usnje divjih živali je nadpomenka za vse vrste usnja, ki jih pridobimo od divjih živali, napr. Jeleni, Kengoruji, Antilope, Gazele, Losi, Bivoli, Gamsi,… Dandanes pa večino teh živali ne živi v naravi , temveč so v ujetništvu.

Usnje divjih živali ni zelo pogosto, saj te živali v primerjavi z domačimi niso tako pogoste. Poleg tega tudi količina usnja ni tako visoka kot pri gojenih živalih, saj so v naravi bolezni kože, piki žuželk in poškodbe pogostejše.

Poleg vrste živali pa se izraz usnje divjih živali uporablja tudi za površine, ki so bile nabrazdane. Tako ne označujemo gladko kengurujevega usnje motorističnega kombinezone ali bivoljega usnja sedežne garniture za usnje divje živali.

Običajno izrazom usnje divjih živali skrivajo vse vrste grobega usnja ne glede na to ali res prihajajo od živali živačih v divjini ali pa od goveda, svinje ali jagnja. Ob tem se kot usnje divjih živali ozančuje predvsem grobo usnje za čevlje, torbe in oblačila. Pri pohištvenem usnjz+u je pogosteje Velur usnje alu Nubuk. Če želite natančno vedeti, kaj je mišljeno z oznako usnje divjih živali, je to potrebno preveriti.

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Nubuk usnje

Nubuk usnje je usnje, ki je zbrušeno na gladki brazgotinasti strani. Z brušenjem dobi usnje žametno površino. Z brušenjem postane gladka površina usnja toliko groba, da je žametna. Usnje je tako zelo mehko na odtip in poveča se njegova propustnost (usnje bolj diha). Slaba stran je večja občutljivost na madeže in maščobe. Tudi odpornost na UV žarke se zmanjša in zato takšno usnje hitreje zbledi.

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Nubuk ima zelo fin Flor, to je najbolj vidno na smeri časanja.

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Novo Nubuk usnje je dobro impregnirano, pri starejšme usnju pa impregnacija popusti in voda se vpije v usnje.

Za Nubuk usnje se uporblja predvsem goveja in telečja koža. Redkeje pa kozja, ovčja ali jelenja koža. Nobuk usnje se uporablja za pohištvo, torbe, oblačila in obutev, redkeje pa v avtomobilski industriji, kjer ga najdemo v Z1 od BMW ali v Maybachu.

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Nubuk-usnje pri pohištvu

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Nubuk-usnje v BMW Z1 nahrbtnem in stranskih delih. – Nubuk strop v BMW E28 M5 iz leta 1986.

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Nubuk-usnje – predal za rokavice pri Mercedes Maybach

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Izraz “Nubuk usnje” verjetno izhaja iz angleškega jezika. “Buckskin” je izraz za usnje divjih živali. Z brušenjem govejega usnja so dobili grobo usnje z podobnim izgledom, ki se je nato označevalo kot “new buck” in nato skrajašno “nubuck”.

Navodila za nego in čiščenje takšnega usnja

Potiskano Nubuk usnje

Potiskano Nubuk usnje je Nubuk sunje, na katerega se z tiskarskim valjem natisne barvni vtisk. Na delih, kjer je nanešena barva (temni del), je usnje kot pigmentirano gladko usnje, vmes (svetli del) pa je običajno Nubuk usnje. Odtis je vedno temnejši kot Nubuk usnje.

V pohištevni industriji je bilo v 80. in 90. potiskano Nubuk usnje zelo razširjeno. Danes je takšno usnje pri pohištvu zelo redko. Včasih ga najdmo še pri oblačilih in obutvi. V avtomobilski industriji se ga ne uporablja.

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Poznamo različne vzorce za takšne odtise. Najbolj razširjen je vzorec brazgotine gladkega usnja.

Navodila za nego in čiščenje takšnega usnja

Velur usnje

Kot velur usnje se označujeta dve vrsti usnja in sicer navzdol razprto, z oboje stransko velur površino usnje in na zadnji strani neobdelano usnje. V nasprotju z žametnim Nubuk usnjem je Velur bolj grob. V angleško govorečem prostoru se takšno usnje imenuje “Suede”.

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Povečava Velur usnje

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Velur-usnje pri pohištvu.

Najpogosteje se Velur usnje uporablja pri športnih copatih in delovnih rokavicah. V obeh primerih je pomemben dejavnik zaščitna in zmožnost dihanja. Velur usnje je zelo odprtoporno in pot lahko enostavno pride skozi usnje. Ker se roke in noge močneje potijo, je ta lastnost zelo pomembna. Velur tudi ščiti roke in noge pred poškodbami.

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Športni copati so velikorat iz Velur usnja. Pri copatih iz jagnjega usnja se velur zadnje strani obdela na zunanji strani.

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Pri delovnih rokavicah se pogosto uporablja Velur usnje.

Več informacij na spletu

Navodila za čiščenje in nego

Video

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Čiščenje čevljev iz grobega usnja

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